Day 17 had us traveling from Chéticamp, Cape Breton to hit up a few more sights and sites in Cape Breton to leaving the island and heading back to the Nova Scotia mainland. While the day had us driving quite a bit, we were able to break up the trip with a few fantastic stops: The Alexander Graham Bell Museum in Baddeck, St. FX in Antigonish, and then Pictou Lodge in Pictou, where would be spending the night.

Around every corner, the views just got more and more incredible as we made our way around the Cabot Trail heading toward the Skyline Trail, . As G navigated the van through the winding roads, I kept looking out both the front windshield and the rear window, ogling each view. We toured the Cabot Trail counter-clockwise, starting in Ingonish and ending in Chéticamp, so that we’d always be closest to the side of the water. Lots of folks do it the other way around and, honestly, I’m not sure one is “better” than the other. The views are stunning no matter which direction you’re headed!

Day 15 of our three-week road trip through the Maine and the Maritimes would take us from Keltic Lodge at the Highlands in Ingonish, Cape Breton, to camping at Meat Cove Campground, way at the tip of Cape Breton Island. Man oh man, it was a day of fantastic views.

We’ve only just begun our exploration of Cape Breton Island, and I’m so looking forward to what awaits us these next few days. While the rest of the Nova Scotia is incredibly beautiful, there’s something about the wild, untamed, rugged landscape of Cape Breton that—already—is drawing me in. It’s like California’s Big Sur, the Green Mountains of Vermont (if Vermont were on an ocean), and the cliffs of Acadia National Park all rolled into one. It’s what I imagine Scotland and Ireland to look like. Cape Breton, you are stunning. Absolutely stunning. And this is the just the beginning…

Our destination for the night was Battery Provincial Park, located in St. Peter’s, not too far from the Canso Causeway that links Cape Breton Island with the rest of Nova Scotia. I’m always nervous about booking campground sites, as I never know if the location is good, if the bathroom is closer (or further away!) than it looks on a map, and what “privacy” and “shade” actually mean. The park has 53 campsites (we had site #8), and let me say this: it’s GORGEOUS. We had site 8, and an awesome view of St. Peter’s Bay.

Our second day in Halifax began with another trip to the Halifax Seaport Farmer’s Market; we had gone yesterday morning but advised that Saturday would be THE day to visit. And when we did, we had to get the cinnamon buns. Of course, I’ll take that kind of advice. And the cinnamon buns from Aly Mae’s were, in fact, deliciously amazing. I chatted for a bit with the woman working, and she confirmed what the market staffer told me the day before: the cinnamon buns are a hit, and they tend to sell out fast! How fast? She brings seven tubs of rolls for the market, each holding about 16 buns (total: 112 buns+/-), each looking absolutely delectable in their waxed baggies—, and she usually sells out by 10. Luckily, we arrived by 8, and we had our pick—literally, as she let us pick which ones. We wandered around a bit, picked up more root beer and assorted sodas from Garrison Brewing, and made our way back up the hill to the hotel. Sidenote: All the walking makes me feel just a *little* less guilty about eating our way through the Maritimes. Just a little.

Initially, our plan was to hit the Halifax Seaport Farmer’s Market, visit the Canadian Museum of Immigration at Pier 21, have lunch, visit the Maritime Museum of the Atlantic, and maybe even the art gallery. We were able to do everything but the Immigration Museum; Halifax has some incredible sights and museums, and, unfortunately, we couldn’t fit them all in and do each justice. Ah, decisions.

We spent our Fourth of July in Nova Scotia, marking Day #10 of our three-week road trip through Maine and the Maritimes. This day’s itinerary took us from the historic town of Lunenburg to the capital city of Halifax. Our route included some of the most picturesque spots thus far, and some of the biggest crowds, too!

Lunenburg is one of those historic towns that begs for the use of words like “cute,” “charming,” and “quaint,” and “picturesque”—and it lives up to each one. I’ll be honest: I saw the photos in guidebooks and online and wondered if the town would really look that way or if those images were just due to camera and editing skills. You know what? Lunenburg is the real deal—it’s a town that really is picture-perfect. But it’s also a town filled with rich culture and history…and even a few ghosts.

Our first full day in Nova Scotia showcased everything that’s so great about the region: the hospitality and generosity of its people, great fishing, good food, incredible landscape, and breathtaking scenery. Over the course of the next week or so, as we make our way around the island and then up and around Cape Breton, we’re going to explore as many nooks and crannies of this province that we can…and in so doing, I’m sure we’ll fall more and more in love with all of it.

Let’s start out with the old adage, “Even the best laid plans…”

This was one of the days in the entire itinerary that I kept going back and forth on. I think I made four different reservations and canceled them all before deciding on where exactly we’d stay and what we’d do. And then even all of that changed. Bottom line: A lot of driving. But a day that ended in Digby, NS, eating Digby scallops. And lobster. Because, well, it’s lobster.