Road Trip, Day 17: Bell in Baddeck and our farewell to Cape Breton
DAY 17: AT A GLANCE
Starting Point: Chéticamp, Cape Breton Island, Nova Scotia
End Point: Pictou, Nova Scotia
Starting mileage: 190,325
Ending mileage: 190, 561
Daily total (miles): 236
Trip total (miles): 2266
Day 17 had us traveling from Chéticamp so we could hit up a few more sites in Cape Breton before leaving the island and heading back to the Nova Scotia mainland. While the day had us driving quite a bit, we were able to break up the trip with a few fantastic stops.
First: Breakfast.
When we visited L’abri yesterday for lunch, we chatted with our server, who asked where we headed next in our travels. When I told her Baddeck and asked if she had any recommendations along the way, her eyes lit up and without a moment’s hesitation, she told us we should visit The Dancing Goat in Margaree—either for breakfast or for lunch. Or, she said, we could just hang out for three hours so we could have both! Now I know what she meant—it was worth the stop!
We visited the Dancing Goat for breakfast; we indulged with pastries to begin (small cinnamon roll for G; cinnamon apple scone for me) and then breakfast sandwiches for the both of us. Oh my gosh, they were delicious—instead of an English muffin, roll, or toast, these sandwiches are served on cheddar/herb biscuits. YUM. I grabbed a coffee to go and started chatting with another family checking out the shelves of cookies and breads; the mother told me that they’ve come each day of their vacation and keep “restocking” their supply of baked goods. The gingersnap cookies, she told me, were to die for. And so, of course, I had to try them! Good choice. Good choice, indeed.
Our morning adventure took us to the Alexander Graham Bell National Historic Site in Baddeck. When I was initially planning our itinerary for this trip, I had hoped to get here but wasn’t sure we’d be able to fit it in. After chatting with our campsite neighbors at Meat Cove, a lovely couple in their mid-70s, I was convinced: we HAD to make time to visit—and I’m so glad we did! The museum isn’t too large, and we easily explored it in an hour or so. The museum is a national historic site, so our pass allowed us allowed us free admission. Otherwise, admission is $7.80 per adult. Totally worth it.
I’ll be honest: my knowledge of Bell was limited mainly to “he invented the telephone.” Honestly, that’s probably the LEAST of his accomplishments. I had no idea of his work as a teacher of the deaf (his wife, a former student of his, was deaf, as were his two daughters). I didn’t know he was one of the original founders of the the National Geographic Society. I also had no idea of his work with kites—and, as a result—his contributions to aviation, as part of a group that was figuring out a way to get humans in flight. The museum includes a reproduction of the Silver Dart, which was designed and built by bell and other members of Aerial Experimental Association. The Silver Dart was the first powered aircraft to fly in Canada when it took off at Baddeck, Nova Scotia on February 23, 1909. Bell and his peers were also working on hydrofoils, which would lift hulls out of the water (decreasing water resistance and increasing speed). With the hull of boat, hydrofoils underneath, and wings above, the seaplane should be able to take off and fly. The museum has a full-scale replica of the HD4 as well as a hull the original hydrofoil that Bell and his peers had built and experimented with. From his love story with Mabel to his work with the deaf, to the telephone, hydrofoils, and flying machines, Alexander Graham Bell was incredible—and to think I thought his main contribution was “just” the telephone.
Red chairs looking out from the museum over Bras D’Or Lake. Bell and his family made their home in Baddeck, calling it Beinn Bhreagh, meaning “Beautiful Mountain” in Scottish Gaelic. Both Bell and his wife are buried there.
Before leaving Baddeck, I made a quick run into the Baddeck Yarns shop. Full disclosure: I don’t know how to knit. My mom taught me once, but I forget—and I probably didn’t have the patience for it then. And yet, being here makes me want to learn. Besides, it would be such a great way to pass the time in the van! I was hoping for some fun learn-how-to-knit-Cape-Breton-style kits, but the minute I walked in, I knew I was waaaay out of my league. I’ll wait until I get home to figure this out and get started. And mom, if you’re reading, get ready to teach me (again)!
Next stop: Big Spruce Brewing to see if they had any root beer in stock. Unfortunately, no, but they did have a maple-infused cola that G said was awesome. A sidetone: If you’re a beer drinker, Nova Scotia has a fantastic craft beer scene. I can’t imagine the extra calories we would have consumed if we had been drinking!! As if fresh seafood isn’t enough, Nova Scotia. Really.
Then, we were off for a quick stop to the Gaelic College, back in Ingonish. We had passed by earlier in our travels, but it was closed. We didn’t make time to attend any of the demonstrations (e.g., kilts, weaving, song and dance), but we did look through the wonderful shop. Wow, I wish I were Scottish! So much heritage and history in the tartans, in the culture, in the music. And all I could think of was that old SNL clip, “If it’s not Scottish, it’s CRAP!” I would love to visit the college again in the future and attend some of the demonstrations and events. Definitely on my “next time” list!
We crossed the Canso Causeway and with that, left Cape Breton and its beautiful landscape, culture, and people in our rearview mirror. We were back on the mainland of Nova Scotia. Ah, farewell, Cape Breton. We will most certainly be back.
And now, off to check out St. Francis Xavier University in Antigonish, or “St. FX.” Since G and I both work in higher education, it’s always fun visiting other colleges and universities. St. FX, a public university considered one of Canada’s best, was founded in 1853 and currently enrolls about 5,000 students. The campus is absolutely beautiful. We found our way to the bookstore and then wandered around campus a bit. So glad we made the stop!
Around 4:30, we landed at our destination for the evening, Pictou Lodge in Pictou, Nova Scotia. Just a few minutes from the lodge is the ferry that will take us to our third and final province, Prince Edward Island, and the final days of our trip. We checked into the lodge, settled a bit, and then wandered the property.
For dinner, enjoyed a fantastic meal at the lodge’s informal pub. We ordered two great drinks—a maple blueberry spritzer for G, and a nonalcoholic blueberry mojito for me. SO good! We both had small Caesar salads and lobster croissants (French fries for me; onion rings for G). We sat at the bar, as eating is first-come, first-served, and it was packed when we arrived at 6:30. Live music was scheduled to begin at 8, which, unfortunately, we didn’t stay for. We had a great conversation with two older women who were sisters and traveling together from Alberta, Canada. We shared where we’ve been so far and different tips and suggestions.
After dinner, we walked down to the beach on the property and snapped a few photos before returning to our room, relaxing (and working on the blog), and heading off to bed for our final night in Nova Scotia. Tomorrow, our third and final province before heading back to the States, Prince Edward Island.
