Road Trip, Day 12: Halifax, Part Deux

DAY 12: AT A GLANCE
Starting Point: Halifax, Nova Scotia
End Point: Halifax, Nova Scotia
Starting mileage: 189,715
Ending mileage: 189,715 (another driving-free day!)
Daily total (STEPS): 18,338
Trip total (miles): 1520

Our second day in Halifax began with another trip to the Halifax Seaport Farmer’s Market; we had gone yesterday morning but advised that Saturday would be THE day to visit. And when we did, we had to get the cinnamon buns. Of course, I’ll take that kind of advice. And the cinnamon buns from Aly Mae’s were, in fact, deliciously amazing. I chatted for a bit with the woman working, and she confirmed what the market staffer told me the day before: the cinnamon buns are a hit, and they tend to sell out fast! How fast? She brings seven tubs of rolls for the market, each holding about 16 buns (total: 112 buns+/-), each looking absolutely delectable in their waxed baggies—, and she usually sells out by 10. Luckily, we arrived by 8, and we had our pick—literally, as she let us pick which ones. We wandered around a bit, picked up more root beer and assorted sodas from Garrison Brewing, and made our way back up the hill to the hotel. Sidenote: All the walking makes me feel just a *little* less guilty about eating our way through the Maritimes. Just a little.

After returning to the hotel room, I crashed for a bit, sneaking in a short nap (c’mon, 6,000 steps before 9 a.m.!) before we made our way up to the Halifax Citadel National Historic Site, just a few blocks (and a steep hill) away from our hotel. After a quick calculation of fees for the park ($11.70CAD/pp) and the parks we’d be visiting the next few days, we decided to purchase the National Parks’ Annual Discovery Pass ($136CAD for a family/group—up to seven adults). It’s too bad Canada doesn’t have a parks passport like the US does—I’d be working on crushing the stamp collecting!). We arrived just in time for the noon firing of the cannon. Whoa—pretty cool (and loud!). If you’ve visited forts before (and we tend to visit them—a lot, for some reason!), the Citadel will feel very familiar—the open parade ground, cannons, multi-level fortress walls, and soldiers’ bunkers. Still, it’s pretty cool site—and this particular one includes a bagpiper, so bonus points! Another added bonus included on the property is the Army Museum, which explores Canadians’ role in wartime (WWI, WWII, Korea, Afghanistan). We both found really interesting, especially as our history books and classes never really focused on Canada’s forces.

From the Citadel, we walked over to the Halifax Public Gardens, another absolutely lovely spot that, again, reminded us of both San Francisco’s Golden Gate Park and Boston’s Common. G wanted to practice using his macro lens (that thing is a beast!!), and I snapped a few photos, people watched, and soaked in the sun. What a fantastic site!

After hanging out in the gardens for a bit, we returned to the Prince George Hotel. We decided to return downtown and take the 15-minute ferry to Dartmouth ($2.50CAD/pp/one-way) to explore a bit and enjoy dinner there. We hopped on the 4:30 ferry and enjoyed the quick trip and the view of the Halifax skyline.

We got off the ferry and visited a few shops—Trainyard General Store and the New Scotland Clothing Co. flagship store. Both—so cool! We picked up a few stickers to add to the YETI cooler, and I bought another tee (#3, if you’re keeping track).

Another thing about Darmouth: such cool street art!

Then, we were lucky enough to snag a table at the incredibly popular (for good reason) Canteen restaurant. It was 5p, and the restaurant had just opened; otherwise, I doubt we would have gotten in. I’m so glad we did, as it was one of the best meals we’ve had so far! We started with the snow crab and lobster dip and two baked oysters. YUM. I ordered the mussels (I was going to wait until PEI to order mussels, but I gave in), and G ordered the scallop and lobster risotto. Holy cow, was the food great. If you’re ever in Halifax: GO TO CANTEEN. Next time (and there WILL be a next time!), I’ll have to return for the burger. It looked SO good, and our server confidently told us it’s the best in the city. The crobster sandwich (available at lunch) also sounded amazing. Next time, for sure.

We returned to Halifax on the 7 p.m. ferry, and G had room for ice cream. We fell in love with COWS Ice Cream last summer, when we visited PEI (it’s based there). I’m holding out for COWS in PEI, but G indulged and got a Wowie Cowie (vanilla ice cream, English toffee marble, chocolate flakes, and Moo Crunch) and Gooey Mooey (burnt sugar ice cream, English toffee marble, caramel cups, and chocolate flakes) combo. More stickers for the cooler, and a few shots of the waterfront.

And with that (and an uphill walk back to our hotel), our second full day in Halifax came to a close…after 18,000+ steps. Tomorrow, we’ll return to the road. We’ll make a final stop in Halifax—to the Fairview Cemetery to visit the Titanic burial site—before heading out of the city and off to Cape Breton.